Tuesday, July 20, 2010
On to Lolo Pass
This is the section of country I have been waiting and dreaming of riding for over 6 months as I planned this trip. I have researched it on google earth, and poured over maps. My plan called for following Rte 12 to Lolo Pass and then drop down into Missoula. This stretch follows the Clearwater River to its origin near the pass. It is a slow climb for nearly 125 miles and to be honest, I could have taken a picture at every turn. At some point, I just had to put the camera away and just enjoy the ride. I have ridden thousands of miles in all 49 states and in my estimation this is the best and most scenic motorcycle road in America. Prior to this my favorite was the Cherahoala Skyway in Tennessee and NC. This makes that look pale in comparison. The pavement was brand new, the turns were sweepers with some a tight ones thrown in just to keep you on your toes. Traffic was almost non- existent, except for the BMW's heading to and from Oregon. I did not want it to end. I only had one contruction site where two men belayed on ropes were prying rocks from the cliffs above so they would not fall on the roadway at some inopportune time. We sat and waited while bolders fell in front of us for about 15 minutes. Eventually a front end loader then cleared the road and we were on our way. In all of my travels this is the only time I have seen this being done, but it does make sense. The history of this area is very interesting. As most of you know, Lewis and Clark explored the Missouri river up to Great Falls Montana where they had to portage around the 5 major falls there. There were looking for a river route to the Pacific Ocean. Well as we all know (just look at google earth guys!) there is none. From Great Falls they hiked to Lolo Pass where they entered the headwaters of the Clearwater River that I followed up stream to the Pass. They copied the indians method of making dugout canoes by burning the insides of Ponderosa Pines to make their canoes. Then for the first time in their exploration, they headed "down stream". Their trip up the Missouri must have really been a struggle fighting the current all the way. The clearwater empties into the Snake River which empties into the Columbia and thus they eventually ended up at the Pacifice Ocean via the Columbia. The interpretive narration at the Lolo Pass center said that they passed on the abundant salmon wanting meat instead. They traded with the indians for dogs to eat. (BE CAREFUL SNOOPY) So much for salmon being a delicacy. :-)
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